Guilin & Yangshuo Travel Guide
China's Most Beautiful Landscape
The karst mountain landscape of Guilin and Yangshuo is one of China's most iconic natural wonders โ the scenery you see on the ยฅ20 banknote. Perfect for nature lovers, photographers, and anyone wanting to escape the big cities.
Top Highlights
- โCruise the Li River through surreal karst peaks
- โBike through the Yangshuo countryside rice paddies
- โWatch the Impression Liu Sanjie light show
- โExplore the Longji (Dragon's Backbone) rice terraces
- โTake in the Two Rivers and Four Lakes night cruise
Must-Visit Attractions
Li River Cruise
4-hour cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo through stunning karst scenery
Yangshuo Countryside
Rent a bike or e-bike and ride through rice paddies and villages
Longji Rice Terraces
2-hour drive from Guilin, spectacular layered hillside terraces
Reed Flute Cave
Illuminated limestone cave inside Guilin city
Moon Hill
Short hike in Yangshuo with panoramic karst mountain views
โ ๏ธ Pitfalls & Warnings
- โ ๏ธLi River cruise boats are often packed โ book the 4-star boat for more space
- โ ๏ธYangshuo West Street is a tourist trap โ real food and culture is on side streets
- โ ๏ธBamboo raft 'tours' are overpriced at the dock โ book through your hotel
- โ ๏ธRainy season (April-June) means misty views โ beautiful for photos but wet
- โ ๏ธDon't swim in the Li River despite what you see others doing โ currents are dangerous
๐ Must-Try Food
Guilin: The Complete Travel Guide for Foreign Visitors
Guilin's landscape has been celebrated in Chinese poetry and painting for over a thousand years, and the moment you see the karst peaks rising like dragon teeth from the emerald Li River, you understand why. The old Chinese saying "Guilin's scenery is the best under heaven" (Guilin shanshui jia tianxia) is printed on the back of China's 20-yuan banknote โ this is literally the landscape that represents China. For foreign visitors seeking natural beauty combined with cultural richness, Guilin and the surrounding area offer one of the most visually stunning experiences in all of Asia.
Overview: Why Visit Guilin
Guilin is a mid-sized city of about 5 million people in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region of southern China. The city itself is pleasant but not extraordinary โ the real draw is the surrounding landscape. The Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo, passing through a dreamscape of karst pinnacles reflected in jade-green water, is one of the world's iconic travel experiences. Yangshuo, at the river's end, offers cycling through rice paddies, rock climbing on limestone cliffs, and a backpacker-friendly atmosphere that has been drawing international travelers for decades.
Beyond the famous Li River, the region includes the spectacular Longji (Dragon's Backbone) Rice Terraces, ancient villages of ethnic minority groups (Zhuang, Yao, Dong, Miao), caves filled with stalactites, and some of the best rock climbing in Asia. Guilin is also home to Reed Flute Cave, Elephant Trunk Hill, and Two Rivers Four Lakes โ attractions within the city itself that are worth seeing.
Best Time to Visit
April through October is the main season. The Li River is fullest and most scenic during and after the rainy season (April-June). Rice terraces are bright green with growing rice from May through September, and golden with ripe rice in late September through October. Summer (July-August) is hot (30-35ยฐC / 86-95ยฐF) and humid but the lush greenery is at its peak.
April through June offers the best balance: the river is high enough for the full cruise, the landscape is intensely green, and the terraces have water reflecting the sky (especially during the late April planting season when the terraces are flooded โ this is the most photographically dramatic time).
September through November is harvest season. The Longji terraces turn golden, and the weather cools to comfortable temperatures (18-28ยฐC / 64-82ยฐF). October is arguably the best single month to visit, though the National Day Golden Week (October 1-7) brings enormous crowds.
December through March is cool and sometimes foggy (5-15ยฐC / 41-59ยฐF). The Li River may be too low for the full cruise (boats are sometimes replaced by shorter routes). The terraces look bare. However, misty mornings create ethereal photography, hotel prices are at their lowest, and Yangshuo is peaceful.
How to Get There
By Air
Guilin Liangjiang International Airport (KWL) has domestic flights from all major Chinese cities and some international routes (Seoul, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Singapore). The airport is 30 km from the city center. Airport shuttle buses run to the city center (CNY 20, 40 minutes). Taxis cost CNY 80-100.
By High-Speed Rail
Guilin North Station and Guilin West Station handle high-speed trains. Key routes: Guangzhou South (2.5 hrs, from CNY 162), Shenzhen North (3 hrs), Nanning East (2.5 hrs), Guiyang (2 hrs), and Changsha (2.5 hrs). From Beijing or Shanghai, expect 8-10 hours or an overnight conventional train. For most foreign visitors, flying to Guilin and taking the train onward to other cities is the most practical approach.
Yangshuo Station: The high-speed rail also stops at Yangshuo station (actually in Xingping, 30 minutes from Yangshuo town by bus). If your primary interest is Yangshuo, you can skip Guilin city entirely and head straight there.
Getting Around
Within Guilin City
Guilin is compact enough that central attractions are walkable. Buses are cheap (CNY 2) and cover the city well. Taxis are abundant (CNY 7 base fare). Didi works here. The city has no metro system, but its small size makes this unnecessary.
Guilin to Yangshuo
The Li River cruise itself is the primary transport โ and the main attraction (see below). Alternatively, direct buses from Guilin Bus Station to Yangshuo take 1.5 hours (CNY 25-40). High-speed rail to Yangshuo Station takes 25 minutes, plus a 30-minute bus to Yangshuo town center.
Getting Around Yangshuo
Yangshuo town is small and walkable. For the surrounding countryside (Moon Hill, countryside cycling routes, Xingping), rent a bicycle or electric scooter (CNY 30-60/day for a bicycle, CNY 60-100/day for an e-scooter). Minibuses connect to Xingping (30 min, CNY 10). Bamboo rafts on the Yulong River are both transport and attraction.
Getting to Longji Rice Terraces
Direct tourist buses from Guilin to Longji take 2-2.5 hours (CNY 40-50). Alternatively, hire a private car (CNY 400-600 round trip). No rail connection. The terraces are best visited as an overnight trip to catch sunrise or sunset.
Neighborhoods Guide
Guilin City Center
The area around Zhongshan Road and the Two Rivers Four Lakes scenic area is the main tourist zone. Elephant Trunk Hill, Sun and Moon Pagodas, and the night cruise are all here. Accommodation ranges from international hotels (Shangri-La, Sheraton) to budget options. Best for: one or two nights to see Guilin's city attractions before heading to Yangshuo.
Yangshuo West Street (Xi Jie)
The famous backpacker street lined with cafes, restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops. It has been catering to foreign travelers since the 1980s and has a well-worn traveler vibe. English is spoken at many establishments. Best for: budget travelers, social atmosphere, easy access to restaurants with English menus.
Yangshuo Countryside
The area between Yangshuo town and the surrounding villages offers stunning scenery โ karst peaks, rice paddies, water buffalo, and winding rivers. Boutique hotels and guesthouses scattered through the countryside offer peaceful retreats with mountain views. Best for: couples, photography enthusiasts, travelers seeking tranquility.
Xingping
A small ancient town on the Li River, 25 km upstream from Yangshuo. The view from Xingping is the one printed on the 20-yuan note. Far quieter and more authentic than Yangshuo town. Several excellent guesthouses. Best for: photographers, travelers wanting to escape the tourist crowds, the authentic old riverside town experience.
Longji Rice Terraces (Longsheng)
The terraced villages of Ping'an and Dazhai are 2 hours north of Guilin. Ethnic Zhuang and Yao villagers still farm the terraces. Wooden guesthouses in the villages offer rustic but atmospheric accommodation with terrace views. Best for: overnight stays to catch sunrise over the terraces.
Suggested Itineraries
1-Day Highlights (if short on time)
- Option A โ Li River Focus: Take the morning Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo (4-5 hours). Explore Yangshuo West Street and surrounding area for the afternoon. Watch the Impression Liu Sanjie outdoor show (evening). Stay in Yangshuo or return to Guilin by bus.
- Option B โ Guilin City Focus: Elephant Trunk Hill (morning), Reed Flute Cave (midday), Fubo Hill for panoramic views (afternoon), Two Rivers Four Lakes night cruise (evening).
3-Day Comprehensive
- Day 1: Guilin city โ Elephant Trunk Hill, Reed Flute Cave, Seven Star Park. Evening: Two Rivers Four Lakes night cruise (the illuminated pagodas and bridges reflected in the lakes are beautiful).
- Day 2: Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo (departs 9:00-9:30 AM, arrives 1:00-2:00 PM). Afternoon: explore Yangshuo West Street, rent a bicycle for a short ride to nearby countryside. Evening: Impression Liu Sanjie outdoor performance (directed by Zhang Yimou, performed on the actual Li River with karst mountains as backdrop โ spectacular).
- Day 3: Bamboo raft on the Yulong River (more intimate and quieter than the Li River, propelled by a pole โ no motor). Cycle to Moon Hill (a natural arch in a karst peak). Afternoon: visit Xingping ancient town and photograph the 20-yuan note view. Return to Guilin or continue your journey.
5-Day In-Depth
- Days 1-3: As above.
- Day 4: Longji Rice Terraces (depart Guilin or Yangshuo early morning). Hike between Ping'an and Dazhai villages (3-4 hours through spectacular terraced landscapes). Stay overnight in a village guesthouse โ sunset and sunrise over the terraces are the highlights.
- Day 5: Morning sunrise over the terraces. Visit a Yao ethnic village (the Yao women are famous for their extremely long hair, washed in fermented rice water). Return to Guilin by midday. Afternoon: Jingjiang Princes' Palace (a mini Forbidden City in the center of Guilin, predating Beijing's by 34 years) and Solitary Beauty Peak for the best viewpoint in the city.
Food Guide
Signature Dishes
- Guilin Rice Noodles (Guilin Mifen): The city's iconic dish โ silky rice noodles in a savory broth with pickled vegetables, peanuts, scallions, and your choice of braised beef, horse meat (a local tradition), or pork. Every local has their favorite shop. CNY 8-15 per bowl. Try Chongshan Lao Mifen or any shop packed with locals at breakfast time.
- Beer Fish (Pijiu Yu): Yangshuo's signature dish โ fresh river fish braised in local beer with tomatoes, peppers, and garlic. Best enjoyed at riverside restaurants in Yangshuo. CNY 60-100 per dish (serves 2-3).
- Stuffed Li River Snails (Niangluosi): River snails stuffed with a fragrant mixture of pork, mint, and spices, then braised. A Guilin street food delicacy. CNY 10-20 per serving.
- Oil Tea (You Cha): A savory tea made by grinding tea leaves with ginger, garlic, and peanuts in oil. Served with puffed rice and fried snacks. An ethnic Yao and Dong tradition, available at restaurants in the Longji area and specialty shops in Guilin. An acquired taste but culturally fascinating.
- Bamboo Rice (Zhu Tong Fan): Glutinous rice with meat and beans stuffed into a bamboo tube and roasted over fire. Sold along the Li River and at the Longji terraces. CNY 10-15.
Best Food Areas
- Zhengyang Pedestrian Street (Guilin): Tourist-oriented but has a concentration of local dishes. Try the mifen shops on the side streets.
- Nanhuan Road (Guilin): Less touristy, more local. Night food stalls after dark serve grilled items, river snails, and cold noodles.
- Yangshuo West Street and surrounding lanes: Restaurants range from local beer-fish places to international cafes with pasta and pizza. The side streets off West Street tend to offer better value than the main drag.
- Xingping village restaurants: Simple riverside restaurants serving fresh river fish, local vegetables, and Guilin mifen at very low prices.
Shopping
- Yangshuo West Street: Souvenirs, silk scarves, hand-painted fans, karst landscape paintings and photographs, tie-dye clothing, and ethnic minority handicrafts. Quality and prices vary widely โ inspect items carefully and bargain at smaller shops.
- Guilin night markets: Near Zhengyang Road. Jade, pearls, calligraphy supplies, tea, and local specialty foods (osmanthus-flavored products are a Guilin specialty โ the city's name literally means "Osmanthus Forest").
- Osmanthus products: Guilin is famous for osmanthus flowers. Look for osmanthus tea, osmanthus wine, osmanthus candy, and osmanthus-scented perfume. These make excellent, lightweight souvenirs.
- Longji terrace villages: Handwoven textiles, ethnic minority silver jewelry, embroidered bags, and locally grown tea. Buying directly from villagers supports the local economy.
Nightlife and Entertainment
- Impression Liu Sanjie: The must-see evening show in Yangshuo. Directed by Zhang Yimou (of Olympic opening ceremony fame), this outdoor performance uses the actual Li River as its stage, with 600 performers and the karst mountains as a natural backdrop. It is one of the most visually stunning performances in China. Tickets CNY 200-700 depending on seating. Book in advance during peak season.
- Two Rivers Four Lakes Night Cruise (Guilin): A 90-minute boat ride through the illuminated lakes and rivers of central Guilin, passing under ornate bridges and past the lit Sun and Moon Pagodas. CNY 150-220. Best way to see Guilin city.
- Yangshuo West Street bars: A strip of bars with live music, cold beer, and an international backpacker crowd. Laid-back and friendly. Drinks are cheap (beer from CNY 10-20).
- Cormorant fishing demonstrations: Traditional fishermen use trained cormorants to catch fish. While largely performed for tourists now, it remains a photogenic evening experience on the Li River near Xingping. Some guesthouses and tour operators arrange small-group viewings.
Practical Tips
- Li River cruise logistics: The full cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo takes 4-5 hours and costs CNY 210-450 depending on the boat class. Book through your hotel, a local travel agent, or online. Boats depart from Mopanshan Pier (30 minutes south of Guilin city by shuttle bus). The cruise is one-way โ you will need to return from Yangshuo by bus or taxi. Morning departure (around 9:00-9:30 AM) is standard. Bring snacks; the onboard lunch is basic.
- Li River alternative โ Xingping short rafts: If time or budget is limited, motorized bamboo rafts from Xingping cover the most scenic section of the Li River (including the 20-yuan note view) in about 1 hour for CNY 100-120. This is a popular and efficient alternative to the full cruise.
- Yulong River bamboo rafts: These are pole-propelled (no motor) and drift slowly through beautiful countryside between Yangshuo and the surrounding villages. More peaceful and intimate than the Li River cruise. CNY 200-300 per raft (fits 2 people). The route from Jima to Gongnong Bridge (1.5 hours) is the classic section.
- Rain gear: The Guilin area is rainy, especially April through June. A lightweight rain jacket or packable umbrella is essential. Rain actually enhances the scenery โ misty karst peaks are the classic Chinese landscape painting come to life.
- Cycling safety in Yangshuo: The countryside roads are generally flat and safe, but watch for local traffic (trucks, tractors, motorbikes). Wear a helmet if provided. Electric scooters are faster but require more caution. Stick to the well-traveled tourist cycling routes your rental shop will map out for you.
- Payment: Alipay and WeChat Pay are standard. Yangshuo West Street businesses often accept cash, and some accept international credit cards, but do not count on it. Guilin city has ATMs at major banks (ICBC, Bank of China).
Day Trips from Guilin
- Li River Cruise to Yangshuo: The definitive day trip (or start of an extended Yangshuo stay). 4-5 hour cruise through the heart of the karst landscape.
- Longji Rice Terraces: 2-2.5 hours north. Best as an overnight, but a long day trip is possible if you depart early. The Ping'an terrace viewpoints are more accessible; the Jinkeng terraces near Dazhai village are more dramatic.
- Xingping Ancient Town: 1.5 hours by bus from Guilin (or 30 minutes from Yangshuo). The 20-yuan note viewpoint, old town streets, and a hike up Laozhai Mountain for a panoramic view of the Li River bending through karst peaks.
- Silver Cave (Yinzi Yan): A spectacular illuminated limestone cave 1 hour south of Guilin. Enormous caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. CNY 70 entry. Combined with a visit to Lipu town.
- Sanjiang Dong Village: 3 hours north. Sanjiang is home to the Dong ethnic minority, famous for their Wind and Rain Bridges (covered wooden bridges built without nails) and drum towers. Authentic ethnic minority culture with relatively few tourists. Best as an overnight trip.
Common Mistakes First-Timers Make
- Spending all their time in Guilin city. The city itself is pleasant but not the main attraction. The magic is on the Li River, in Yangshuo's countryside, at the Longji terraces, and in the small villages. Use Guilin as a base for one night, then move to Yangshuo or beyond.
- Only doing the Li River cruise. The cruise is wonderful, but the Yulong River bamboo raft ride is equally beautiful and more intimate. Cycling through Yangshuo's countryside and visiting the Longji terraces add completely different dimensions to the trip.
- Visiting only during clear weather. Misty, overcast, or lightly rainy conditions create the classic Chinese landscape painting atmosphere โ ethereal peaks emerging from clouds. Some of the best photographs are taken in "bad" weather.
- Skipping Xingping. Many visitors go straight from the Li River cruise in Yangshuo to their next destination without visiting Xingping. This quiet ancient town offers the most iconic view, great hiking, and a fraction of Yangshuo's tourist density.
- Not allocating enough time. Guilin, Yangshuo, and the Longji terraces together deserve at least 4-5 days. Rushing through in 2 days means missing the countryside cycling, the bamboo raft experience, and the terrace sunrise โ all highlights.
- Not trying the mifen for breakfast. Guilin rice noodles are a breakfast food. Follow the locals to a packed mifen shop at 7:00 AM and eat as they do โ standing at a counter, slurping noodles. It is one of the most authentic food experiences in the region.
Guilin's landscape has inspired artists for over a millennium, and it will inspire you too. Whether you are drifting down the Li River on a bamboo raft as karst peaks materialize through the morning mist, cycling past rice paddies with water buffalo grazing in the foreground, or watching the sun set over the Longji terraces as they glow like molten gold โ these are the moments that define a trip to China and stay with you long after you return home.
Essential Reading Before Your Trip
These guides apply to all Chinese cities โ read them before you go.