Barkhor Street

Barkhor Street: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

There are few places on Earth where the boundary between the sacred and the commercial dissolves as completely as it does on the Barkhor. This ancient circular street encircling the Jokhang Temple is simultaneously a pilgrimage route, a marketplace, a social gathering place, and the living center of Tibetan Lhasa. Here, weathered pilgrims spin prayer wheels and chant mantras as they walk the clockwise circuit, while beside them vendors sell turquoise jewelry, yak bone carvings, prayer flags, and Tibetan singing bowls. The air carries the scent of juniper smoke and yak butter, and the deep blue sky of the Tibetan Plateau arches overhead at 3,650 meters. The Barkhor is not something you visit in Lhasa — it is Lhasa, distilled to its purest essence.

Overview and Why Visit

The Barkhor (Barkhor Street or Barkhor Circuit) is a roughly circular pilgrimage route encircling the Jokhang Temple in the heart of Lhasa's old town. The circuit is approximately 1 kilometer in length and can be walked in about 20–30 minutes at a leisurely pace. For over 1,000 years, Tibetan Buddhists have walked this route clockwise as an act of devotion, spinning hand-held prayer wheels and murmuring the mantra "Om mani padme hum" as they circle the temple.

But the Barkhor is far more than a prayer circuit. The streets flanking the route are lined with traditional Tibetan houses, shops, tea houses, temples, and monasteries, creating a dense, vibrant neighborhood that has been the commercial and social heart of Lhasa since the founding of the Jokhang in the 7th century. The market stalls along the Barkhor sell an extraordinary range of Tibetan goods — from genuine antiques and handcrafted jewelry to tourist souvenirs and religious supplies.

For foreign visitors, the Barkhor is the single most rewarding place to spend time in Lhasa. It is here that you will encounter the full spectrum of Tibetan life: monks in maroon robes, Khampa traders with red-braided hair from eastern Tibet, nomadic families from the northern plains in heavy sheepskin coats, elderly women with turquoise-studded headdresses, and modern young Tibetans in contemporary fashion. Walking the Barkhor — multiple times, at different hours of the day — is the key to understanding Lhasa.

A Brief History

The Barkhor's origins are inseparable from the Jokhang Temple itself. When King Songtsen Gampo built the Jokhang in 647 CE, devotees naturally began circumambulating the temple as an act of worship — a practice fundamental to Tibetan Buddhism. Over time, this daily circumambulation path became a permanent route, and the area around it developed into a commercial district that served both pilgrims and the broader Lhasa population.

By the time of the great Fifth Dalai Lama in the 17th century, the Barkhor was already a thriving market district and the social center of Lhasa. It was here that festivals were celebrated, news was shared, business was conducted, and the diverse peoples of the Tibetan world — Amdo herders, Khampa merchants, Nepali traders, and Lhasa aristocrats — mingled in a vibrant multicultural bazaar.

The Barkhor has undergone significant changes in the modern era. Urban renovation projects have rebuilt some of the traditional buildings (controversially, in some cases, replacing genuinely old structures with new constructions in traditional style). However, the pilgrimage function of the circuit has endured without interruption, and the Barkhor remains the most authentically Tibetan neighborhood in Lhasa — a place where traditional dress, language, and customs remain visible in daily life.

What to See: Top Highlights

The Pilgrimage Circuit

The most important thing to "see" on the Barkhor is the pilgrimage itself. Join the clockwise stream of devotees — it is open to everyone, regardless of faith — and walk the circuit. Watch the faces of the pilgrims: some are chanting mantras, some counting beads on a mala (Buddhist rosary), some spinning hand-held prayer wheels, and some prostrating at full length on the stones. The pilgrimage continues from dawn until late evening, but the most intense activity occurs in the early morning (6:00–9:00 AM) when the circuit is thick with devotees.

The Market Stalls

The Barkhor market is one of the most fascinating bazaars in Asia. Stalls and shops line both sides of the street, selling: Tibetan jewelry (turquoise, coral, amber, and dzi beads — the mysterious etched agate beads believed to have supernatural properties), singing bowls (Tibetan metal bowls that produce resonant tones when struck or rubbed), thangka paintings (traditional Tibetan Buddhist scroll paintings, hand-painted on silk or cotton), prayer wheels and prayer flags, Tibetan incense, yak bone and horn carvings, Tibetan clothing and textiles, Buddhist statues and ritual objects, and all manner of souvenirs. Quality varies enormously — from genuine antiques and handcrafted items to mass-produced souvenirs from factories in other parts of China. Bargaining is expected and vigorous.

Prayer Wheels Along the Circuit

At several points around the Barkhor, long rows of copper prayer wheels are mounted on the walls. Each wheel is inscribed with the mantra "Om mani padme hum" and contains printed prayers inside. Spinning the wheels clockwise (always clockwise) is believed to send the prayers into the universe. Joining the pilgrims in spinning the wheels as you walk the circuit is a simple, meaningful way to participate in the Barkhor experience.

Traditional Tibetan Architecture

The buildings along the Barkhor display traditional Tibetan architectural features: thick whitewashed stone walls, dark-painted window frames, flat roofs, and colorful fabric awnings. Many buildings are three or four stories tall, with the ground floor used for commerce, the upper floors for residences, and the rooftop for prayer flags and drying laundry. While some buildings have been renovated (or rebuilt), the overall streetscape retains a distinctly Tibetan character that is increasingly rare in modern Lhasa.

Incense Burners (Sangkang)

Large stone incense burners at the corners and intersections of the Barkhor emit thick clouds of juniper and sandalwood smoke. Pilgrims add juniper branches to the smoldering burners as an offering, and the sweet, piney smoke that hangs over the Barkhor is one of its most distinctive sensory features. The smoke is believed to purify the air and please the gods.

Small Temples and Shrines

Several small temples and shrines are scattered along and near the Barkhor circuit, often tucked behind unassuming doorways. These include the Meru Nyingba Monastery (a small but atmospheric monastery with active monks), the Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (one of Lhasa's few nunneries, where nuns chant prayers and make butter sculptures), and numerous small neighborhood shrines where locals light butter lamps and leave offerings. These lesser-known sacred sites are often more intimate and atmospheric than the major temples.

Tromsikhang Market

On the north side of the Barkhor, this indoor market sells everyday goods — clothing, household items, food products, and religious supplies. It is less tourist-oriented than the outdoor Barkhor stalls and provides a glimpse of local Tibetan shopping culture.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Admission

The Barkhor circuit: Free. It is a public street, open 24 hours. No ticket or permit is required to walk the circuit.
Small temples along the route: Some charge nominal admission fees (CNY 10–20), while others are free.

How to Get There

Location: The Barkhor surrounds the Jokhang Temple in central Lhasa. The main entrance to the Barkhor area is from Beijing East Road (Beijing Dong Lu), at the square in front of the Jokhang.

On foot: From the Potala Palace, walk east along Beijing Middle Road for approximately 15–20 minutes. From most old town hotels, the Barkhor is within a 5–10 minute walk.

By taxi: Taxis can reach the edge of the Barkhor area but cannot enter the pedestrianized streets. Tell the driver "Barkhor" or "Ba Kuo Jie" (八廓街). Expect CNY 10–15 from the Potala area.

Best Times to Visit

Early morning (6:00–9:00 AM): The most spiritually intense time. The circuit is full of pilgrims performing their morning devotions. The market stalls are not yet open, so the focus is entirely on the religious activity.
Mid-morning to afternoon (10:00 AM – 5:00 PM): The market is in full swing. This is the best time for shopping and photography of the commercial activity.
Evening (6:00–8:00 PM): The market stalls close, and a quieter evening pilgrimage atmosphere takes over. The streets are less crowded and the lighting is atmospheric.

Payment

Cash (CNY) is essential for the Barkhor market. Most vendors do not accept cards. Some larger shops may accept WeChat Pay or Alipay, but do not count on it. Bring plenty of small bills (CNY 1, 5, 10, and 20) for purchases and bargaining. There are ATMs near the Jokhang square.

Bargaining

Bargaining is an integral part of the Barkhor shopping experience. Opening prices, especially for tourists, are typically inflated by 50–300%. Start by offering 30–40% of the asking price and negotiate from there. Be friendly and patient — Tibetan vendors are generally good-humored negotiators. If you cannot reach an agreement, walking away often produces a lower offer. For genuine antiques or high-quality thangka paintings, seek recommendations from your guide for reputable dealers.

Tips and Warnings

• Always walk clockwise. This is the single most important etiquette rule on the Barkhor. The entire pilgrimage flow moves clockwise (when viewed from above). Walking counter-clockwise goes against the flow of pilgrims and is deeply disrespectful in Tibetan Buddhist tradition. Follow the crowd.
• Walk the circuit multiple times. Each circuit reveals something new — a small shrine you missed, a craftsman at work, a different quality of light. Walking the Barkhor at dawn, midday, and sunset gives three entirely different experiences.
• Photograph respectfully. The Barkhor is a photographer's paradise, but remember that the pilgrims are performing acts of deep personal devotion. Always ask permission before photographing individuals (a smile and a questioning gesture usually suffices). Some pilgrims are happy to be photographed; others prefer not to be. Respect their wishes.
• Be cautious with "antiques." Genuine Tibetan antiques are rare and expensive. Many items sold as antiques on the Barkhor are reproductions. Unless you are an expert, buy for aesthetic enjoyment rather than investment value. Your guide may be able to recommend trustworthy dealers.
• Dzi beads require expertise. Dzi beads (the etched agate beads prized in Tibetan culture) range from genuine ancient specimens worth thousands of dollars to factory-made fakes worth a few cents. Do not buy expensive dzi beads unless you are knowledgeable or have expert guidance.
• The altitude affects everything. Even walking the flat Barkhor circuit at 3,650 meters can be tiring. Walk slowly, rest in tea houses, and drink plenty of water.
• Tea houses are essential. The tea houses along and near the Barkhor are social institutions. Sit down, order sweet tea or butter tea, and watch the life of the Barkhor flow past. This is not wasting time — it is the most authentic way to experience the neighborhood.
• Carry your passport. Security checkpoints are present at entrances to the Barkhor area. Foreigners may need to show identification.
• Prayer flags and religious items make meaningful souvenirs. Strings of prayer flags (printed with prayers and mantras, designed to be hung outdoors) are beautiful, lightweight, and culturally significant souvenirs. Singing bowls, mala beads, and small thangka paintings are also popular and portable.

Nearby Attractions and Food Recommendations

Nearby Attractions

• Jokhang Temple (center of the Barkhor circuit): Tibet's holiest temple. See the separate Jokhang Temple guide.
• Ramoche Temple (500 meters north): Lhasa's second-holiest temple, less crowded and more intimate than the Jokhang.
• Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (within the Barkhor area): A small nunnery where nuns create intricate butter sculptures and chant prayers. A peaceful, lesser-known gem.
• Meru Nyingba Monastery (adjacent to the Barkhor): A small active monastery with atmospheric chapels and friendly monks.
• Potala Palace (1.5 km west): The iconic winter palace of the Dalai Lamas. A 15–20 minute walk along Beijing Middle Road.
• Lhasa Old Town (surrounding the Barkhor): The narrow alleys branching off the Barkhor lead into the old residential quarter, where traditional Tibetan houses, neighborhood shrines, and local life continue largely unchanged.

Food Recommendations

• Barkhor tea houses: Simple, atmospheric establishments serving butter tea (po cha — salty, made with yak butter), sweet tea (ja ngarmo — similar to Indian chai), and basic Tibetan fare. Sitting in a window seat overlooking the Barkhor circuit is one of Lhasa's great pleasures. Budget CNY 5–15.
• Makye Ame (southeast corner of the Barkhor): This famous restaurant, set in a yellow building at the corner of the circuit, is named after a legendary woman beloved by the Sixth Dalai Lama. The rooftop terrace overlooks the Barkhor and is perfect for people-watching over Tibetan or Western food. Budget CNY 40–80 per person.
• Momo stalls and small restaurants: Numerous small eateries in the Barkhor area serve momos (steamed or fried dumplings, usually filled with yak meat), thukpa (hearty noodle soup), and tsampa (roasted barley flour, the staple of the Tibetan diet — usually mixed with butter tea into a dough). Budget CNY 10–25 per person.
• Yak meat restaurants: Yak is the quintessential Tibetan protein. Try dried yak meat (jerky), yak steak, or yak momo. Several restaurants in the Barkhor area specialize in yak dishes. Budget CNY 30–60 per person.
• Tibetan yogurt: Small shops near the Barkhor sell traditional Tibetan yogurt — thick, tangy, and usually served with a generous spoonful of sugar. A refreshing snack, especially in summer. Budget CNY 5–10.

Best Photography Spots

• The pilgrimage stream: Position yourself at a corner of the Barkhor and photograph the continuous flow of pilgrims walking the circuit. The mix of traditional dress — maroon robes, sheepskin coats, turquoise headdresses, cowboy hats — creates a rich visual tapestry. Use a fast shutter speed to freeze individuals, or a slow one to blur the movement and convey the sense of continuous motion.
• Incense smoke at the sangkang: The stone incense burners, with thick clouds of juniper smoke rising against the deep blue sky, are visually dramatic and quintessentially Tibetan.
• Prayer wheels in motion: The rows of copper prayer wheels being spun by passing pilgrims — some with blurred motion, some sharp — create compelling images of devotion in action.
• The Jokhang entrance from the Barkhor: Looking toward the Jokhang from the Barkhor circuit, with prostrating pilgrims in the foreground, prayer flags overhead, and the temple's golden roof visible beyond, is the defining image of Lhasa.
• Market colors: The Barkhor market stalls display vibrant colors — turquoise and coral jewelry, red and gold thangka paintings, multicolored prayer flags, and bright Tibetan textiles. Close-up detail shots of these goods produce richly saturated images.
• Portraits with permission: The faces of the Barkhor's pilgrims and vendors are extraordinary photographic subjects — weathered by altitude and sun, animated by faith and commerce. Always ask permission, and be prepared to show your photograph to the subject afterward. Most people appreciate seeing their image and respond with a smile.

The Barkhor is where Tibet's past and present coexist with an intensity found nowhere else. The pilgrims who walk this circuit today are performing the same devotion that their ancestors performed a thousand years ago, on the same stones, circling the same temple, chanting the same mantras. In a world of relentless change, the Barkhor's continuity is both humbling and reassuring — a reminder that some things endure not because they are preserved by governments or protected by law, but because they are sustained by faith.