Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple

The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

Rising like three ancient sentinels against the dramatic backdrop of the Cangshan Mountains, the Three Pagodas of Dali are arguably the most iconic image in all of Yunnan Province. These remarkable Buddhist structures have survived earthquakes, wars, and the passage of over a millennium, standing as enduring monuments to the power and sophistication of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms — two states that once rivaled Tang Dynasty China in influence across Southeast Asia. For visitors to Dali, the Three Pagodas are the one sight that absolutely cannot be missed.

Overview and Why Visit

The Three Pagodas (San Ta) stand in a triangular formation at the foot of Cangshan Mountain, about 1.5 km northwest of Dali Old Town. The main pagoda, Qianxun Pagoda, rises 69.13 meters (nearly 230 feet) and is one of the tallest brick pagodas ever constructed in China. The two smaller pagodas, each standing 42.2 meters tall, flank the main tower in an equilateral triangle arrangement. Together, they form the visual centerpiece of the Chongsheng Temple complex, which extends behind them up the mountainside in a grand series of courtyards, halls, and gardens.

For foreign tourists, the Three Pagodas offer a rare chance to encounter Chinese Buddhist architecture from the Tang Dynasty era — a period (618–907 AD) often considered the golden age of Chinese civilization. While most Tang-era structures in China have been destroyed or rebuilt beyond recognition, the main pagoda here retains its original form, making it one of the oldest standing structures in southwestern China. The site also provides essential context for understanding Dali's unique history as an independent kingdom that blended Chinese, Tibetan, and Southeast Asian cultural influences.

A Brief History

The main Qianxun Pagoda was constructed between 823 and 840 AD during the reign of the Nanzhao Kingdom, a powerful state established by the Bai people that controlled a territory stretching from southern Sichuan to northern Myanmar. The Nanzhao kings were devout Buddhists who saw the construction of grand religious monuments as both an act of piety and a statement of political power. The pagoda was modeled after the famous Small Wild Goose Pagoda in the Tang capital of Chang'an (modern Xi'an), reflecting the close — if sometimes adversarial — relationship between Nanzhao and the Tang Empire.

The two smaller pagodas were added during the subsequent Dali Kingdom (937–1253 AD), completing the triangular arrangement that has defined the site ever since. Unlike the square, multi-tiered main pagoda, the smaller pagodas are octagonal and feature a different architectural style, reflecting the evolution of Buddhist aesthetics over the intervening century.

The original Chongsheng Temple behind the pagodas was once one of the largest and most important Buddhist monasteries in Southeast Asia, housing over 3,000 monks at its peak. The temple was destroyed multiple times — by earthquake, war, and fire — with the most devastating destruction occurring during the Qing Dynasty. What visitors see today is a reconstruction completed in 2005, built on the original foundations and following historical records of the temple's layout.

The pagodas themselves have proven remarkably resilient. They survived a massive earthquake in 1515 that destroyed nearly every building in Dali but left the pagodas standing — a testament to their sophisticated engineering. During restoration work in the 1970s, workers discovered over 600 Buddhist artifacts sealed inside the main pagoda, including gold Buddhist statues, bronze mirrors, manuscripts, and medicinal herbs. These treasures, dating from the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdom periods, are now displayed in the on-site museum.

What to See: Top Highlights

Qianxun Pagoda (Main Pagoda)

The 16-story, 69-meter main pagoda is a masterwork of Tang Dynasty architecture. Its square form, tapering profile, and tiered eaves are characteristic of Chinese Buddhist pagodas from this period. Each story has windows on alternating sides, and the exterior is decorated with Buddhist figures carved in marble. You cannot enter the pagoda, but walking around its base reveals intricate details in the brickwork and stone carvings. Pay attention to the marble slab carvings depicting Buddhist stories and Nanzhao court life — these are original Tang-era artworks.

The Two Smaller Pagodas

Standing about 70 meters behind the main pagoda, these octagonal pagodas are each 10 stories tall. Their uniform height and symmetrical placement create a powerful geometric composition. While less ornate than the main pagoda, they feature distinctive decorative elements including miniature Buddha figures in niches on each level. The space between the three pagodas is the classic photography spot — from the right angle, you can capture all three towers with Cangshan behind and Erhai Lake shimmering in the distance.

Chongsheng Temple Complex

Behind the pagodas, the reconstructed Chongsheng Temple extends up the mountainside in a series of increasingly elevated courtyards. The complex covers an enormous area and includes the Hall of the Rain and Copper Buddha, the Hall of Guanyin, and the Hall of the Thousand Buddhas. While the buildings are modern reconstructions, they are impressive in scale and contain notable Buddhist statuary. The highest point of the complex offers superb views eastward across the pagodas to Erhai Lake.

The Three Pagodas Museum

Located within the temple complex, this museum displays the artifacts recovered from inside the main pagoda during the 1970s restoration. Highlights include gold Buddhas, bronze Guanyin figures, copper coins, and illuminated manuscripts that reveal the artistic sophistication of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms. The collection is small but extraordinary — some of these objects have no parallels elsewhere in China. English signage is limited but adequate for the major pieces.

The Reflection Pool

A large reflecting pool in front of the pagodas was constructed to enhance the visual spectacle of the site. On calm days, the pool creates a mirror image of the three pagodas against the mountain — one of the most photographed scenes in China. The pool area is the first thing you encounter after entering the main gate and sets the tone for the entire visit.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Tickets and Entry

Entrance fee: CNY 75, which includes access to the pagodas, the Chongsheng Temple complex, and the museum. There is no separate charge for individual sections.

Opening hours: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM daily (last entry at 5:30 PM). Hours may be extended slightly in summer and shortened in winter.

How to book: Tickets can be purchased on-site or in advance through Ctrip or the official WeChat mini-program. During peak season (July–August, Chinese national holidays), advance booking is recommended. Passport required for ticket purchase.

Getting There

From Dali Old Town: The pagodas are 1.5 km northwest of the old town's North Gate. You can walk (20 minutes along a pleasant road), cycle (5 minutes), or take a golf cart shuttle that runs from the old town (CNY 5). A taxi from anywhere in the old town costs about CNY 10–15.

From Xiaguan (Dali New City): Bus 19 runs from Xiaguan to the Three Pagodas. The journey takes about 45 minutes. A taxi costs approximately CNY 50–70.

How Long to Spend

Budget 2–3 hours for a thorough visit. The pagodas themselves can be appreciated in 30–45 minutes, but the Chongsheng Temple complex is vast and the walk up through its courtyards adds significant time (and elevation — wear comfortable shoes). If you are pressed for time, focus on the pagodas, the reflection pool, and the museum; the upper temple complex, while impressive, is a modern reconstruction and less essential.

Food Nearby

• Dali Old Town restaurants (10–15 min walk): The old town's Renmin Lu (People's Road) and Huguo Lu (Foreigner Street) are lined with restaurants serving Bai cuisine, Yunnan specialties, and international food. Try "er kuai" — a Dali specialty of grilled rice cakes with savory or sweet toppings (CNY 5–10).
• Roadside Bai restaurants: Between the old town and the pagodas, several family-run restaurants serve authentic Bai meals — clay pot fish, stir-fried wild mushrooms, and goat cheese — at very reasonable prices (CNY 20–40 per person).
• The Bai Three-Course Tea (San Dao Cha): Several teahouses in and near the old town offer this traditional Bai tea ceremony. The three courses — bitter green tea, sweet walnut-and-sesame tea, and a final fragrant "reflection" tea — make for a memorable cultural experience. CNY 30–50 per person.

Photography Tips

• The reflection pool shot: The classic Three Pagodas photograph is taken from the southern edge of the reflection pool, capturing the pagodas and their mirror images with Cangshan behind. This shot works best on windless mornings when the water is perfectly still. Arrive early (before 9 AM) for the calmest water and fewest tourists in the frame.
• All three pagodas in frame: Finding an angle that captures all three pagodas in a balanced composition requires moving to the southeast of the site. A moderate telephoto lens (70–100mm equivalent) compresses the perspective nicely.
• From the upper temple looking down: Climb to the highest courtyards of the Chongsheng Temple complex for a view that places the three pagodas in the middle ground with Erhai Lake stretching into the distance behind them. This elevated perspective is less commonly photographed and quite dramatic.
• Detail shots: The stone carvings at the base of the main pagoda, the Buddha niches on the smaller pagodas, and the ornamental roof details of the temple buildings all reward close-up photography. A telephoto lens is useful for capturing the upper levels of the pagodas.
• Sunset lighting: In late afternoon, the western sun illuminates the pagodas' eastern faces with warm golden light while Cangshan creates a dramatic shadowed backdrop. The pagodas almost seem to glow.

Insider Tips

• Visit early morning or late afternoon. The site is most crowded between 10 AM and 3 PM, when tour bus groups arrive. Early morning offers the best light, calmest reflection pool, and fewest crowds.
• The free viewpoint trick: For a memorable (and free) view of the pagodas, walk along the fields and paths to the east and northeast of the site. From these elevated farmland areas, you can photograph the pagodas against Cangshan without entering the paid area. Many professional photographers use these angles.
• Combine with Cangshan. The Cangshan cable car station is nearby. Consider visiting the pagodas in the morning and riding the cable car in the afternoon, or vice versa.
• The electric shuttle inside the complex can take you from the pagodas to the upper temple, saving you a steep uphill walk. This costs an additional CNY 25 but is worth it on hot days or for those with limited mobility.
• Bring water. There are limited refreshment options inside the complex, and the walk through the temple can be strenuous in warm weather.
• The museum is often overlooked by visitors who rush through, but the Nanzhao-era gold Buddhas and bronze artifacts are genuinely extraordinary and rival pieces in major national museums.

The Three Pagodas have stood watch over the Dali plain for over 1,100 years. Dynasties have risen and fallen, earthquakes have shaken the earth, and the world has changed beyond recognition — yet these towers remain, their silhouettes as sharp against the Cangshan skyline as the day they were completed. They are not merely old buildings; they are a bridge across time, connecting the modern traveler to the power, faith, and artistry of a forgotten kingdom.