Erhai Lake

Erhai Lake: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

Imagine a vast alpine lake framed by snow-dusted mountains on one side and centuries-old fishing villages on the other, all bathed in a quality of light so luminous that Chinese photographers call it "Dali blue." Erhai Lake is the heart and soul of the Dali region in Yunnan Province, a body of water so central to local life that the Bai people — the indigenous ethnic group of this area — have built their entire civilization around its shores for over a thousand years. If the ancient town of Dali is the cultural center, Erhai Lake is its spiritual mirror.

Overview and Why Visit

Erhai Lake (literally "Ear-Shaped Sea") is the second-largest highland lake in Yunnan, covering approximately 250 square kilometers at an elevation of 1,972 meters above sea level. The name comes from its shape — roughly resembling a human ear when viewed from the mountains above. Despite being called a "sea" (hai), it is a freshwater lake fed by 18 streams flowing down from the Cangshan Mountains to the west and draining through the Xier River to the south.

For foreign tourists, Erhai Lake offers something increasingly rare in modern China: an unhurried, visually spectacular landscape that has not been overdeveloped. While the eastern shore has seen some resort construction, much of the lakefront retains its agricultural character — terraced fields, stone-walled Bai villages, ancient temples perched on promontories, and fishermen using traditional cormorant fishing techniques. The lake is also the connective thread between Dali's most beloved destinations: the old town to the west, the photogenic village of Shuanglang to the northeast, and the culturally rich Xizhou to the north.

A Brief History

Erhai Lake has been the cradle of civilization in western Yunnan for millennia. Archaeological evidence shows human settlement along its shores dating back over 4,000 years. The lake rose to historical prominence during the Nanzhao Kingdom (738–902 AD), a powerful state that controlled much of present-day Yunnan, parts of Myanmar, and northern Southeast Asia. The Nanzhao kings built their capital on the lake's western shore, and the lake served as both a natural defense and a vital resource for agriculture and trade.

The subsequent Dali Kingdom (937–1253 AD) continued to center its power around Erhai Lake. This kingdom was famously conquered by the Mongol armies of Kublai Khan in 1253, an event that brought Yunnan firmly into the Chinese imperial orbit. Marco Polo reportedly passed through the area during his travels, describing the lake region's beauty and the sophistication of its inhabitants.

Throughout subsequent centuries under the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Bai people maintained their cultural identity around the lake, developing distinctive architectural styles, tie-dye textile arts, and a cuisine built around the lake's abundant fish and the region's mild climate. The traditional Bai "three-course tea" ceremony (san dao cha) — one bitter, one sweet, one reflective — is said to mirror the journey of life itself, and it originated in the villages surrounding Erhai.

What to See: Top Highlights

Cycling the Lake

The single best way to experience Erhai Lake is to cycle around it. The full circuit is approximately 130 kilometers and takes 2 full days at a leisurely pace (or one very long day for strong cyclists). Most visitors choose to cycle a half-circuit — typically the western or eastern shore — and return by vehicle. The road is mostly flat and paved, with dedicated cycling lanes on many sections. Electric bikes and regular bicycles can be rented in Dali Old Town, Xiaguan, or Shuanglang for CNY 30–80 per day (electric bikes) or CNY 20–40 (regular bikes). The western shore between Dali Old Town and Xizhou (about 20 km) is the most scenic and manageable segment for casual cyclists.

Jinsuo Island (Jinsuo Dao)

This small inhabited island near the southeastern part of the lake is the only natural island in Erhai. Connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, it is home to a fishing village where life moves at an almost meditative pace. The island's temple, Benshui Temple, offers views across the entire lake. Visit in the early morning when fishermen are preparing their nets and the lake surface is glassy.

Xiaoputuo Island

A tiny rocky islet barely 200 meters in circumference, Xiaoputuo holds a miniature temple dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. The island is often described as the most photographed spot on Erhai Lake — the sight of the delicate temple perched on bare rock, surrounded by blue water with Cangshan as a backdrop, is genuinely breathtaking. Access is by boat from Haidong or nearby piers. The island itself takes only 10 minutes to explore, but the boat ride and the views justify the trip.

Wase Market Town

On the eastern shore, Wase holds one of the largest and most colorful open-air markets in Yunnan every five days (on dates ending in 5 and 0 in the lunar calendar). Bai, Yi, and other ethnic minority women in traditional dress sell everything from fresh lake fish and wild mushrooms to handwoven textiles and herbal medicines. Even when the market is not running, Wase is worth visiting for its laid-back atmosphere and lakefront promenade.

Cangshan-Erhai Viewpoints

Several elevated points around the lake offer panoramic views that capture the full drama of the Cangshan-Erhai landscape. The Nanzhao Customs Island (a constructed tourist site on the western shore) provides good elevated views, though the entrance fee is steep. For free viewpoints, the hillsides along the eastern shore road between Haidong and Shuanglang offer stunning westward views, especially at sunset when the Cangshan peaks are backlit.

Cormorant Fishing

While increasingly rare as a commercial practice, some fishermen along the western shore still use trained cormorants to catch fish — a technique dating back over a thousand years. The birds dive underwater and return with fish in their gullets, prevented from swallowing by a ring around their necks. Early morning is the best time to spot this practice, particularly near the villages between Caicun and Xizhou. Be respectful if photographing — these are working fishermen, not performers.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Getting There

By air: The nearest airport is Dali Fengyi Airport (DLU), about 15 km from Dali Old Town. Flights connect to Kunming (45 minutes), Chengdu, Chongqing, Guangzhou, and several other cities. A taxi from the airport to Dali Old Town costs approximately CNY 80–120.

By train: Dali Railway Station (in Xiaguan, the new city) receives high-speed trains from Kunming (about 2 hours, CNY 145 for second class). From the station, Bus 8 runs to Dali Old Town (40 minutes, CNY 2), or a taxi costs CNY 40–60.

From Dali Old Town to the lake: Erhai Lake's nearest shore is only about 2 km east of Dali Old Town. You can walk, cycle, or take a short taxi ride (CNY 10–15) to Caicun pier or the lakeside road.

Boat Tours

Official sightseeing boats depart from Longkan Pier (near Xiaguan) and Caicun Pier (near Dali Old Town). A standard tour (3–4 hours) visits Jinsuo Island, Xiaoputuo, and Nanzhao Customs Island, with Bai cultural performances on board. Tickets cost approximately CNY 140–180. Tours depart in the morning (around 9:00 AM) and early afternoon. For a more independent experience, hire a private fishing boat from smaller piers along the western shore — negotiate a price (expect CNY 200–400 for a 2-hour private trip).

Best Time to Visit

March to May and September to November offer the best weather — clear skies, comfortable temperatures (15–25°C), and excellent visibility. Summer (June–August) brings the rainy season with afternoon showers, though mornings are often clear and the lake takes on a dramatic, moody quality. Winter (December–February) is dry and sunny but cool (5–15°C during the day). The lake is beautiful year-round, but spring — when the Cangshan peaks still have snow and the fields are green — is arguably the most photogenic season.

Accommodation

For the best Erhai Lake experience, consider staying at a lakefront guesthouse rather than in Dali Old Town. The eastern shore villages of Shuanglang and Haidong have numerous boutique hotels and guesthouses with lake-view rooms and terraces. Expect to pay CNY 300–800 per night for a mid-range lakefront room. Many guesthouses are converted Bai courtyard homes with traditional architecture and modern amenities. Book through Ctrip or Booking.com.

Food Near the Lake

• Suanla Yu (sour-and-spicy fish): The signature lakeside dish, made with fresh Erhai fish in a tangy broth with tomatoes, pickled peppers, and fresh herbs. Available at virtually every restaurant along the lakeshore. CNY 40–80 per pot.
• Sha Guo Yu (claypot fish): Whole fish slow-cooked in a clay pot with tofu, mushrooms, and Yunnan ham. A hearty and warming dish.
• Xizhou Baba: A savory or sweet flatbread from Xizhou village, baked in a traditional oven. The best versions have a flaky, crispy texture. CNY 5–10 each. Try both the savory (with scallions and Yunnan ham) and sweet (with rose paste) versions.
• Bai-style grilled fish: Small lake fish grilled over charcoal and seasoned with chili and Sichuan pepper. Sold at lakeside stalls and night markets.
• Rushan (milk fan): A distinctive Bai dairy product made from goat's milk, stretched into thin sheets, then grilled or fried and served with sugar or rose jam. It tastes unlike anything else in China.

Photography Tips

• Golden hour on the eastern shore: Position yourself on the eastern shore road between Haidong and Shuanglang for sunset shots looking west across the lake toward Cangshan. The mountains, lake, and sky create a layered composition with extraordinary color.
• Xiaoputuo at dawn: If you can arrange an early morning boat, the tiny temple island with mist rising off the lake makes for ethereal photographs.
• Reflection shots: The calmest water is typically in the early morning before 8 AM. The western shore near Caicun offers excellent Cangshan reflections on still mornings.
• Bai village details: The whitewashed walls, grey tile roofs, and ornate gate screens of Bai architecture along the lakeshore provide beautiful architectural subjects. Look for the painted murals and carved wooden details on courtyard gates.
• Aerial perspective: If you have a drone (check current regulations — drone restrictions vary), the view from above reveals the lake's ear shape and the patchwork of farmland along its shores. The best aerial viewpoint is from the Cangshan foothills looking east.
• Cormorant fishermen: If you find active cormorant fishermen, shoot with a telephoto lens from the shore. The silhouette of a fisherman on a bamboo raft with cormorants perched on the bow against a misty lake is one of China's most iconic images.

Insider Tips

• Skip the official tourist boats if you value flexibility. The large tour boats follow a fixed route with timed stops. Instead, rent an electric bike and explore the lakeshore at your own pace, stopping wherever the view compels you.
• The eastern shore is less developed and more scenic for driving or cycling. The western shore road runs close to the lake but passes through more developed areas. The eastern shore road is quieter, with better elevated viewpoints.
• Sun protection is critical at this altitude. At nearly 2,000 meters, UV radiation is significantly stronger than at sea level. Wear sunscreen (SPF 50+), sunglasses, and a hat even on cloudy days.
• Water quality has improved dramatically since a major government cleanup campaign began in 2017. However, swimming in the lake is officially discouraged, and some sections are off-limits for environmental protection.
• Learn a few Bai greetings — locals appreciate the effort. "Nuo wei ni" (hello) will earn you warm smiles in lakeside villages.
• Avoid Chinese national holidays (first weeks of May and October especially). The lakeside roads become choked with traffic, accommodation prices double or triple, and the serene atmosphere vanishes.

Erhai Lake is not a single attraction to be checked off — it is an entire landscape to be absorbed. The interplay of water, mountains, traditional villages, and that extraordinary Yunnan light creates an experience that many travelers describe as the highlight of their time in China. Give it at least two full days, slow down to the rhythm of the lake, and you will understand why artists, poets, and dreamers have been drawn to these shores for centuries.