Xizhou Village

Xizhou Village: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

If you want to understand the Bai people — their architecture, their values, their daily rhythms — there is no better place in China than Xizhou. This remarkably well-preserved village on the northwestern shore of Erhai Lake represents the pinnacle of traditional Bai domestic architecture, with merchant mansions and family compounds that rival anything in Tuscany or Provence for sheer aesthetic refinement. Yet Xizhou remains a functioning agricultural village, where farmers drive tractors through lanes flanked by ornate marble-framed doorways, and the morning market overflows with produce from fields that extend to the lakeshore. It is real, beautiful, and profoundly undervisited by foreign tourists.

Overview and Why Visit

Xizhou (also romanized as Hsi-Chou) lies approximately 18 km north of Dali Old Town on the western shore of Erhai Lake, at the foot of the Cangshan range. With a population of around 25,000, it is larger than a typical village but retains a distinctly rural character. The village is renowned for its concentration of traditional Bai courtyard homes, many dating from the late Qing Dynasty and Republican era (late 19th to early 20th century), which display a unique architectural vocabulary of white marble facades, intricate wood carvings, painted gate screens, and spacious courtyards arranged according to strict Bai feng shui principles.

What makes Xizhou exceptional for foreign visitors is the living quality of its heritage. Unlike many "ancient villages" in China that have been emptied of residents and filled with souvenir shops, Xizhou's grand houses are still inhabited by Bai families. Children play in courtyards where their great-grandparents were born. Market vendors sell vegetables grown in nearby fields. The village's cultural fabric is intact, and a visit here provides genuine insight into a way of life that has been refined over centuries.

Xizhou is also the birthplace of one of China's most beloved street foods — the Xizhou baba, a savory or sweet flatbread that has become synonymous with Dali cuisine. Tasting it fresh from a traditional clay oven, in the village where it was invented, is a culinary experience not to be missed.

A Brief History

Xizhou's history is inseparable from the broader story of the Bai people and the Dali region. The area has been settled for at least 2,000 years, and during the Nanzhao Kingdom (738–902 AD), the Xizhou plain was an important agricultural zone supplying the kingdom's capital near present-day Dali. The Bai people, who constitute the majority population, developed a sophisticated culture that absorbed elements from Chinese, Tibetan, and Southeast Asian civilizations while maintaining a distinct identity expressed through language, religion, architecture, and cuisine.

Xizhou's golden age came in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when the village became a center of the "Bai merchant" tradition. Enterprising Bai families established trading networks along the ancient Tea and Horse Road (Cha Ma Gu Dao), the web of caravan routes connecting Yunnan to Tibet, Southeast Asia, and the Chinese interior. These merchants — dealing in tea, salt, cloth, medicines, and opium — accumulated considerable wealth, which they invested in building elaborate family compounds in Xizhou. The result was one of the finest concentrations of domestic architecture in southwestern China.

The most prominent of these merchant families were the Yan, Dong, Yang, and Yin clans, whose grand residences still stand and can be visited. The largest compounds feature multiple courtyards, each more elaborate than the last, with marble balustrades, carved wooden screens, painted murals depicting scenes from literature and mythology, and gardens designed for contemplation and entertainment.

After 1949, many of the merchant families lost their properties during land reform campaigns. Some houses were divided among multiple families, while others were converted to public use. In recent decades, recognition of Xizhou's architectural heritage has led to preservation efforts, and several of the grandest compounds have been restored and opened to visitors.

What to See: Top Highlights

The Yan Family Compound (Yan Jia Da Yuan)

The largest and most impressive traditional residence in Xizhou, this sprawling compound was built by the Yan family, successful tea merchants, in the early 20th century. The complex features three major courtyards connected by passageways, with a total of over 100 rooms. The architecture blends traditional Bai elements — marble facades, painted gate screens — with Western influences introduced through the family's international trade connections, including glass windows, iron balconies, and even a Western-style parlor. The compound is now a museum (entrance CNY 15) with displays on Bai architecture, the Tea and Horse Road trade, and the Yan family's history. English signage is limited but the architecture speaks for itself.

The Linden Centre

Founded by Brian Linden, an American who fell in love with Bai architecture, the Linden Centre occupies the meticulously restored Yang family compound — a Qing Dynasty merchant mansion that took three years and employed local Bai artisans to restore. It operates as a boutique hotel and cultural center, and even if you are not staying here, you can visit the public areas, attend cultural workshops (tie-dye, calligraphy, cooking classes), and admire what is arguably the finest restoration of traditional Bai architecture anywhere. The Linden Centre has been instrumental in raising international awareness of Xizhou's heritage.

The Morning Market

Xizhou's daily morning market is one of the most authentic and visually rich markets in Yunnan. Held in the main square and surrounding lanes every morning (peaking between 7:00 and 9:00 AM), it features Bai farmers selling fresh produce, meat, tofu, flowers, herbs, and spices. The market is a feast for the senses — the colors of stacked vegetables, the sounds of Bai language bargaining, the aromas of fresh herbs and sizzling baba. This is not a tourist market; it is where the village shops. Foreign visitors are welcome but not catered to, which is precisely what makes it special.

Bai Tie-Dye Workshops

Xizhou and the nearby village of Zhoucheng are the center of Bai tie-dye (zharan) production — a traditional craft that produces the distinctive blue-and-white patterned cloth seen throughout the Dali region. Several workshops in Xizhou offer demonstrations and hands-on classes where you can learn the traditional techniques of folding, tying, and dyeing fabric using natural indigo. A 2-hour workshop typically costs CNY 80–150 and you take home your creation. This is one of the most rewarding cultural experiences available in the Dali area.

The Village Lanes and Architecture

Beyond the famous compounds, Xizhou rewards aimless exploration. The village's back lanes are lined with traditional homes displaying the full vocabulary of Bai architecture: the "three rooms and one screen wall" layout, the "four rooms enclosing five courtyards" plan of wealthier families, ornamental gate screens (zhaobi) painted with landscapes or calligraphy, marble door frames, and carved wooden eaves. Each home is slightly different, reflecting the taste and means of its builders. Look for the carved "fu" (fortune) and "shou" (longevity) characters above doorways, and the flower paintings on courtyard walls.

Sifang Jie (Square Street)

The village's central square has been a market and gathering place for centuries. The surrounding buildings include some of Xizhou's oldest architecture, and the square itself is the heart of the morning market. Several cafes and restaurants overlook the square — claiming a seat at an upstairs window with a coffee and watching the market below is a quintessential Xizhou experience.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Getting There

From Dali Old Town: Minibuses run frequently from the old town's east gate area to Xizhou (CNY 8–10, about 30 minutes). A taxi costs CNY 40–60. Cycling from Dali Old Town (18 km along a flat road through farmland) takes about 1 hour on an electric bike or 1.5 hours on a regular bicycle — a pleasant ride with Cangshan as a constant companion to the west.

From Shuanglang: Minibuses connect Shuanglang to Xizhou (CNY 15–20, about 30 minutes). A taxi costs CNY 60–80.

How Long to Spend

A half-day (3–4 hours) is sufficient to see the main compounds, walk the lanes, and enjoy the morning market and a baba. A full day allows for a tie-dye workshop, a more thorough exploration, and a relaxed lunch. Some travelers choose to stay overnight in Xizhou, which offers a quieter, more authentic alternative to Dali Old Town.

Accommodation

The Linden Centre (from CNY 800/night) is the premier option — staying in a restored Bai mansion is a cultural experience in itself. Several other guesthouses in converted traditional homes offer good accommodation at lower prices (CNY 150–400). Xizhou is quiet at night, which is a plus for those seeking tranquility but may feel too sleepy for travelers wanting evening entertainment.

The Xizhou Baba Experience

• What it is: A round flatbread made from wheat flour dough, stuffed with a savory filling (scallions, Yunnan cured ham, sesame) or sweet filling (brown sugar, rose paste, crushed peanuts), and baked in a traditional cylindrical clay oven heated by charcoal.
• Where to eat it: Multiple baba stalls ring the central square. The most reputable are the ones with the longest queues of local customers. The stalls near the north side of Sifang Jie are generally considered the best.
• How much: CNY 5–10 per baba.
• The verdict: Try both savory and sweet. The best versions have a crispy, flaky exterior with a fragrant, generous filling. Fresh from the oven, with a cup of Yunnan green tea, it is one of China's great street food experiences.

Other Food

• Bai Eight-Bowl Banquet (Ba Wan): A traditional Bai celebratory meal featuring eight dishes served in large bowls. Some restaurants in Xizhou offer a version of this for tourists — a great way to sample a range of Bai flavors in one sitting. CNY 60–100 per person.
• Fresh goat cheese: The Bai are one of the few Chinese ethnic groups with a dairy tradition. Xizhou's goat cheese (rubing) is grilled or fried and served with salt, chili, or honey. CNY 10–15.
• Wild honey: Sold in the morning market, Cangshan wild honey is prized for its complex floral flavors. A small jar makes an excellent edible souvenir.

Photography Tips

• The morning market is the star. Arrive before 8 AM for the best light and activity. Shoot from the upper floors of the cafes overlooking the square for an overview, then dive into the market for close-ups of produce, faces, and hands. A 35mm or 50mm equivalent lens is ideal for the intimate market scenes.
• Gate screens (zhaobi): The painted and carved screen walls visible through open doorways are unique to Bai architecture. Look for ones featuring ink-wash mountain landscapes or bold calligraphy characters — these make striking standalone images.
• Courtyard interiors: If you visit the Yan Family Compound or the Linden Centre, the play of light in the courtyards — entering through ornamental windows, reflecting off marble floors, filtering through flowering trees — is extraordinary. Midday light, which photographers normally avoid, actually works well in courtyards where it creates dramatic overhead illumination.
• Farmland context: Walk beyond the village into the surrounding fields for compositions that place the traditional architecture in its agricultural context, with Cangshan behind. These wider landscape shots convey the village's relationship with the land.
• Bai traditional dress: Many older Bai women in Xizhou still wear traditional clothing daily — white blouses, embroidered vests, and distinctive headdresses. Always ask permission before photographing individuals. A smile and gesture toward your camera is usually understood; most people are happy to be photographed if asked respectfully.

Insider Tips

• Visit Xizhou in the morning. The market is best before 9 AM, the baba ovens are hottest in the morning, and the light on the whitewashed buildings is beautiful in the first hours. By afternoon, the village quiets down and tour groups have departed.
• Combine with Zhoucheng. The nearby village of Zhoucheng (5 km north) is the center of Bai tie-dye production. If you are interested in textiles, visit Zhoucheng after Xizhou for a deeper dive into the craft.
• The Xizhou-to-Shuanglang lakeshore ride (about 15 km) is one of the most scenic cycling routes in the Dali area. Rent a bike in Xizhou and ride east to the lake, then north along the shore to Shuanglang. The route passes through rice paddies, fishing hamlets, and wildflower fields.
• Learn about Benzhu worship. Xizhou has several Benzhu (local guardian deity) temples that are active centers of Bai religious life. These are not tourist attractions, but visitors who approach with genuine respect and curiosity are generally welcomed. The village temple near the south entrance is the most accessible.
• Bring cash. While some cafes and guesthouses accept digital payment, the morning market vendors and baba stalls are cash-only. An ATM is available near the main square.
• Xizhou is an excellent alternative base to Dali Old Town for exploring the region. It is quieter, more authentically Bai, and well-positioned for day trips to Cangshan, Erhai Lake, and the Three Pagodas.

Xizhou is the kind of place that makes you reconsider what "luxury" means. The luxury here is not in five-star amenities or designer brands — it is in the quality of light falling on a marble courtyard, the taste of a flatbread fresh from a clay oven, the sound of Bai conversation drifting from an open doorway, and the view of snow-capped peaks rising above tile rooftops. It is a village that has been getting the important things right for centuries, and a visit here may be the most enriching cultural experience in the Dali region.